This file is vital – it sets up how the printer will respond to GCODE commands as well as other things and this is where you will do most of your printer tweaking, NOT in the slicer program like you normally do with the UP3D software.įor a reference guide to all the settings, see: SSH into your raspberry PI, mount the mass storage drive and save the file mini_v4_config to the drive as config.txt Step 5ĭownload firmware+config bundle from tinyfab.xyz() - updates are published on the tinyfab.xyz facebook page so check there for updates.
#Cetus3d firmware update serial#
When booted, the printer will appear as USB mass storage AND a serial device at /dev/ttyACM0. Note that with the CPU mod, the power button at the front of the unit is now an emergency stop to kill a print, you don’t use it to turn on the printer.
#Cetus3d firmware update install#
Install Octoprint on a spare raspberry pi and connect it to the printer USB, power on the PI and the printer. The original heated bed is a bit crap, it only gets up to 39C on my machine (with the heaters on.)– this is important! Step 3 After installing, you'll either have to cut the corner off your perfboard or leave sticking out a bit. The temperature probe bolts on to the back corner of the heater bed through the little hole. If you bought an external temperature probe, connect it to the white socket on the underside of the CPU (do before atatching). Open the back of your UP3d, remove the old CPU and insert the replacement. Step 1īuy a GCODE CPU for Tiertime UP! plus mini cetus 3D printer smoothieware from tinyfab.xyz on ebay Step 2 The instructions for setting up this new CPU took me about a day to figure out so hopefully these might be useful to someone. This is a lot of hassle and I was in the process of dumping my old UP when I saw a GCODE CPU on ebay for $90 - I bought it and it works great, now I have a fully open source 3d printer I can use with any slicer or filament and which works great with Octoprint. Some enterprising folks have got around these restrictions by putting resisters in series with the thermistor or by transcoding GCODE into UP3D code. The UP hot-end is better then I ever realised when I bought the printer - it's all-metal and heats up to 300C which is enough to work PETG and most of the exotic filaments that are now available. Only get a choice of 2 temperatures - PLA or ABS and these are the wrong temperatures for most non-UP brand filament.Impossible to turn the support generation off.Have to plug the printer into a PC USB socket.The stock UP3D mini firmware is pretty good - UP software gives you a slicer and a GUI all in one program.
0 kommentar(er)
